This boite's got a lotta bling-bling

Pricey drinks, but no sneers here

INSIDE: Y

By Ellen Fox

Oct 22, 2003

Am I in Beverly Hills?"

A bemused male initiate asks the blond bartender. The correct reply, never spoken, should have been, "Do you want to be?" Because whether or not you enjoy Y, a new "luxury cocktail boutique" managed by stymied Sound-bar owner Rainer Zach, pretty much depends on whether you delight in West Coast exclusivity.

From its high concept--it's all about table service--and high prices, to its low, mod seating and low-cut crowd, customers at this River North spot will feel like they're lounging at some L.A. boite featured on E!'s "It's Good to Be…"

But while there might be fewer celebrities to gawk at here (though they're probably on their way), one thing you can thank Y for is keeping it friendly, Chicago-style: The staff, though predictably hot, isn't prone to sneering. Not even while they're charging you $20 at the door.

Once inside: Your '70s rec room just went post-modern. With brown "designer wood-paneling" on the walls, hard yellow touches (it's actually blond onyx), and plasma-screen TVs showing nature images, you'll feel like the only thing missing is some new twist on that old basement smell.

Most of the long room is reserved (literally) for seating on cube-like seats and tables in shades of faux-ostrich brown and metallic dirty yellow. So unless you book a cube--or make it into the VIP area, where you can configure ottoman seating yourself--you're doomed to spend the whole night standing by one of the two yellow onyx bars that split the length of the room.

Crowd: Though Zach's target is the monied set, opening weekend featured a healthy showing by model-types and young clubbers amid dressy Trixies, middle-aged Gold Coast cigar-chompers and queer-eyed straight guys.

At the bar: The bar, with its $6 Heinekens and $12 martinis, is small potatoes. What you need is table service: a bottle of premium liquor (priced around $200) on ice, accompanied by garnishes and mixers. There's also a wine list, with a nice selection of bubbly.

What to wear: Men have a choice of two looks: Euro (hair highlights, crazy shirt, sunglasses) or hunk couture (snug, unbuttoned button-down and clean jeans). Women should look casually sexy, but don't mistake this place for White Star, across the street. Frugal fashionistas take note: Zach has hinted that the better-dressed clientele (like that group in tuxedoes last weekend) won't have to pay the door fee.

Sounds: A background-friendly mix of downtempo, with some '70s and '80s faves thrown in.

Service: Zach is stressing good service, and by the high staffers-to-starlets ratio, it looks like he thinks quantity begets quality.

Bottom line: Are the people who want to throw down $200 for a bottle of Effen vodka the same people who can actually afford to? Not always, so book that reservation now and start saving, babe.

Y is located at 224 W. Ontario St. 312-274-1880.

Ellen Fox is a metromix special contributor.