The rice stuff

Sake is the star at these spots

By Ellen Fox

1/14/03

As the number and quality of Chicago's sushi restaurants have surged in the last few years, so has the number of spots specializing in sake, the traditional sushi accompaniment. Devotees know the premium stuff is best drunk chilled, and that, unlike the vinegary brew you first tried years ago, quality sake offers a wide range of flavors, from citrus to cloves, in styles that range from subtle to bracing.

Ohba. Leading the way is this warm, creamy lounge, recently opened by Miae Lim, whose first foray into premium sakes three years ago -- at nearby Mirai Sushi -- proved a smash. Her new spot boasts 20 bottles ($40-$125) from smaller Japanese breweries, 10 of which are available by the glass ($10-$18). A four-sake flight ($20) lets you taste a range of flavor, from light to full-bodied, and there are numerous sake martinis (like the Lychee or Peach Passion, $10) for those who like to mix it up. Pair it with a sorbet flight (pictured) for $10.

Hey Sushi. Settle into the jewel-toned couches at this spacious Lakeview spot -- where the sushi bar features a conveyor belt of tempting plates -- to sip one of 11 sake-based cocktails ($8). Choices include the outrageous Winter at Sea (three smoked oysters drowned in Kurosawa sake) and Banzai Tea (a riff on the Long Island Iced version). On Fridays, cocktails are only $6, and on Tuesdays, the house sake is $5.50 (usually $7.50).

Dragonfly. This sexy Asian restaurant and nightclub serves three sakes ($5-12 glass, $30-$50 bottle) and the O'Sake cocktail -- a blend of Ozeki sake, Bacardi O and Grand Marnier, garnished with a cherry ($10).

Tsunami. Arguably the city's first sake lounge, the candle-lit second floor of this six-year-old sushi spot is on the verge of rolling out a new menu of sake cocktails to spice up its existing selection. Every Thursday from 9-10 p.m., you can sip complimentary hot sake by the fireplace before taking the town. Or stop in weekdays, 6-7 p.m., for half off any of its nine brands (regularly $8-$25 by the glass, $31-$110 bottle).

Kamehachi. At this Streeterville spin-off of an Old Town favorite, customers can choose from more than 14 brands, including the much-loved Momokawa Asian Pear ($5, $25 bottle). Those who are ready to dispense with pretensions are welcome to indulge in a Sake Bomber, in which a hot cup of sake ($4.50-$5.50) is dropped into a cold mug of beer and gulped down frat-style.

Nomi. Those with a yen for upscale chic can check into the sleek seventh floor of the Park Hyatt, where the four brands (one served hot) of sake include the light, refreshing Kira ($10 small serving, $18 large). In a stroke of self-reference, the bar has even named a sake martini after its designer: the Tony Chi blends sake, Smirnoff vodka and pickled ginger ($11).

Ellen Fox is a Chicago freelnace writer.

Originally published Jan. 14, 2003.